Washing Machine Not Draining: What to Check
Washing machine not draining? Learn the safe checks for kinked hoses, clogged filters, suds and settings, and when standing water needs a technician.
- By ApplianceCareNow Editorial Team
- Published
- 7 min read
What you’ll need
- Towels and a shallow pan or baking dish
- A bucket and a plastic cup for bailing water
- A flashlight
- Your washer’s owner’s manual (or its model number)
- An old toothbrush for cleaning a filter
Quick answer
A washing machine not draining is most often caused by a kinked or clogged drain hose, a blocked drain pump filter on a front-loader, too many suds, or a cycle that was paused or set to skip the spin. Start by checking that the cycle actually finished and that the drain hose behind the washer isn’t bent flat. This guide is for anyone facing a tub of standing water who wants to try safe, basic checks before calling for help.
Safety first
- Unplug the washer before you touch anything other than the control panel. If the plug is hard to reach, switch off the washer’s circuit breaker instead.
- Turn off both water supply valves (the hot and cold taps behind the washer) before you move or check any hose.
- If water has spilled near an outlet, power strip or the power cord, stop. Don’t touch the washer or the plug. Switch off the breaker from a dry spot, or call an electrician.
- Never force a door or lid that is locked. The lock is a safety device that keeps the door shut while water or a spinning drum is inside. Don’t tape, prop or tamper with it.
- If you notice a burning smell, smoke or sparks, stop using the washer and unplug it only if you can do so safely.
- A tub full of water is heavy. Don’t try to tip or drag a loaded washer.
Before you begin
Take a moment for a few simple checks. Many “won’t drain” calls turn out to be a cycle that hasn’t finished yet.
- Is the cycle really over? Some cycles include a soak or a long pause. Look at the display or dial to see where the cycle is.
- Check the settings. A “rinse hold,” “no spin” or “drain off” option may be selected, which leaves water in the tub on purpose. Names vary by brand and model.
- Check power. If the washer stopped mid-cycle, see whether the outlet still works. A GFCI outlet (the kind with Test and Reset buttons) may have popped, or a breaker may have tripped.
- Find the model number. It’s on the rating label, often inside the lid, around the door opening or on the back. Our guide on finding your appliance model number shows where to look. With it you can find the manual and the meaning of any error code.
If the display shows a code, look it up in the owner’s manual or on the manufacturer’s support site. Codes are different for every brand and model, so don’t guess.
Possible causes
Things you can check yourself:
- A cycle setting that skips draining or spinning
- A drain hose that is kinked, crushed against the wall or pushed too far into the standpipe (the open pipe the hose hangs in)
- A clogged drain pump filter, sometimes called a coin trap, on many front-loaders
- Too many suds from using regular detergent in an HE (high-efficiency) washer, or from using too much detergent
- A clogged household drain or standpipe, especially if a nearby sink is also slow
- A small or lopsided load that the washer refuses to spin
Problems that need a technician:
- A failed drain pump or a pump you can hear humming but that moves no water
- A faulty lid switch or door lock that stops the washer from moving on to drain
- Control or wiring problems
- A blockage inside the washer that you can’t reach without removing panels
Step-by-step drain checks
Work through these in order. Stop at any point if something feels unsafe.
- Try a drain and spin cycle. Close the lid or door, choose “Drain & Spin” or “Spin Only” if your washer has it, and start it. Listen for water flowing out. Did it drain? If yes, the earlier cycle may have been paused or set to skip spinning. If not, go to step 2.
- Unplug the washer and turn off the water. Pull the plug (or switch off the breaker) and close both supply valves. Now it’s safe to look behind the machine.
- Check the drain hose. With a flashlight, follow the drain hose from the back of the washer to the standpipe or laundry sink. Straighten any kinks, and make sure the washer isn’t pressed against the wall crushing it. If the hose is pushed deep into the standpipe, your owner’s manual will say how far it should go in. Was the hose kinked? If yes, plug the washer back in, turn the water on and try “Drain & Spin” again. If it looked fine, go to step 4.
- Look at your household drain. If the laundry sink or a nearby floor drain is also slow or backing up, the clog may be in the house plumbing, not the washer. That is a job for a plumber.
- Clean the drain pump filter (front-loaders, if your manual allows it). Many front-loaders have a small access door near the bottom front for a drain pump filter. This is user maintenance on many models, but check your manual first. If the last cycle used hot water, let it cool first. With the washer unplugged, lay down towels and a shallow pan, because water will pour out. Follow the manual to release the water slowly, then unscrew the filter and clear out lint, coins, hair ties and small socks. Rinse it, screw it back firmly and close the door. Did you find a blockage? If yes, run a “Drain & Spin” cycle and check for leaks around the filter. If not, go to step 6.
- Bail out water if you need to. If your washer has no filter door, or the tub is still full, scoop water into a bucket with a cup. It’s slow but safe. Don’t tip the machine.
- Reduce the suds. If you see a thick layer of foam, run a rinse cycle with no detergent. Next time, use HE detergent if your washer is marked HE, and measure it by the line on the cap. For more on how washers use water and energy, see ENERGY STAR’s page on clothes washers.
- Rebalance and try again. Spread wet items evenly around the drum. If the load is one heavy item, like a bath mat, add a couple of towels. Run “Drain & Spin” once more. Still full of water? If the washer hums but doesn’t drain, or does nothing at all at the drain stage, the problem is likely inside the machine. Go to the next section.
A family with a top-load washer might find the whole issue was a laundry basket shoved behind the machine, bending the hose flat. A renter with a stacked front-loader might pull a sock out of the filter. Small things often cause big puddles. If the washer also won’t start at all, see what to do when your washing machine won’t start.
When to stop and call a qualified technician
Call a qualified appliance technician, or use the manufacturer’s service network, if:
- The washer hums, buzzes or clicks at the drain stage but no water leaves
- You’ve checked the hose, filter and settings and it still won’t drain
- An error code keeps coming back after you’ve followed the owner’s manual
- The door or lid stays locked with water inside and the manual’s steps don’t release it
- You smell burning, see smoke, or the breaker or GFCI outlet trips again
- Water is leaking from under the machine, not just from the hose or filter area
- Any fix would mean removing panels or reaching the pump, motor or wiring
If your house drain is clogged, a plumber is the right person to call. If you’re not sure, it’s always fine to stop and ask a professional.
FAQ
Why is there still water in my washer after the cycle ends?
A small amount of water in the bottom of some front-loaders, especially near the door seal, can be normal. A tub with standing water that covers clothes is not. Check the cycle settings, the drain hose and the drain pump filter first.
Can I open a front-load washer door when it’s full of water?
Don’t force it. Most washers keep the door locked while water is inside, as a safety feature. Drain the water first using a drain cycle or, if your manual allows, the drain pump filter, and follow the manual’s steps for releasing the door.
How often should I clean the drain pump filter?
It depends on the brand and model, and on how much lint and small items your laundry sends through. Your owner’s manual will suggest a schedule. Cleaning it whenever drainage seems slow is a good habit.
Can too much detergent stop a washer from draining?
It can. Heavy suds can confuse some washers or slow draining. Use the right type of detergent for your washer and measure carefully, then run a rinse with no detergent to clear foam.
Should I pour drain cleaner into my washer?
No. Chemical drain cleaners can damage washer parts and hoses and aren’t meant for appliances. If the house drain is clogged, contact a plumber.
Official sources
Links go to official safety agencies and manufacturer support pages. ApplianceCareNow is not affiliated with these organizations. Always follow your own appliance’s manual where it differs from this guide.